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St.
Mary's County
375th Anniversary
Saturday,
May 2, 2009 from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Chairman: Cherie Heely,
21652 Joe Hazel Rd. Leonardtown, MD, 20650
Telephone 301.263.3148 or cherieheely@hotmail.com
Information: Cherie
Heely: Telephone 301.690.2106 or cherieheely@hotmail.com
Karen Doherty: Telephone 301.904.3437 or k_a_doherty@earthlink.net
Special Project: St.
John’s Site Museum, which opened in September 2008, is a new
Historic
St. Mary’s City museum which showcases a replica of the St. John’s
House, which was originally
built in 1638 to serve as Maryland’s
first State House. The surrounding museum grounds occupy about
one acre of beautiful woodlands. Including mature trees, young understory
trees and shrubs, there are at
least twenty-five different woody species
on the site. Unfortunately, however, wild vegetation, most of it extremely
invasive, is also present. The goal of this project is to remove
these invasive exotic species to emphasize the existing palette of fine
native plants, and add new ones. This is the beginning of a fine
modest-scale arboretum of Southern Maryland plants around a very important
historic site.
Lunch: Delicious box
lunches including dessert and beverage will be available for $10.00 from
11:30 am to 2:00 pm. next to the May Russell Lodge (site
8). Some seating is available. Reservations
are recommended. Contact Anne Rullman before April 28th at
301.997.0239 or annebigred@aol.com.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~HISTORY~
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St. Mary’s
County lies on the peninsula bounded by the famous “Oyster Waters” -
the beautiful Patuxent and Potomac Rivers and the Chesapeake Bay. The
main highways cutting through the center of the county give little indication
of the loveliness beyond on the many less-traveled bypaths. The early
settlers built on the shores and traveled by water. In like fashion,
today’s tour returns repeatedly to the riverside. In St. Mary’s County
the first settlers arrived on March 25, 1634, aboard the Ark and the
Dove. Today’s pilgrimage celebrates the 375th anniversary
of that event. After stopping at St. Clement’s Island,
where they gave thanks for their safe arrival, the settlers proceeded
up St. Mary’s River, where they purchased from the Indians the village
of Yaocomico with 30 miles of land, renaming it “St. Maries.” The charter
was written in 1632 for George Calvert, first Lord Baltimore. When he
died in 1634 before he could carry out his settlement plans, the charter
was put into effect under Cecilius Calvert, second Lord Baltimore, who
became the first Proprietor. Cecilius sent his two brothers, Leonard
and George, with about 140 settlers and adventurers to the new land where
Leonard became the first governor of Maryland. St. Mary’s City was Maryland’s
first capital and remained so until 1694 when the seat of government
was moved to Annapolis. In 1708 the legislature ordered that a town be
laid out at Breton Bay and that the county court of St. Mary’s be held
there. First called Seymour Town, the name was changed in 1728 to Leonard
Town, now Leonardtown. It is still the county seat. Descendants of some
of the original families still own and occupy the houses built by their
ancestors.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ DIRECTIONS ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
From Baltimore: Take
I-695 to US 3 to US 301 South to Upper Marlboro.
At intersection with
US 4 go south and take US 4 through Calvert County toward Solomon Island.
Cross the Thomas Johnson Bridge over the Patuxent River. Proceed
to the traffic light at the intersection
of US 4 and MD 235; turn south
toward Lexington Park and Historic St. Mary’s City. Drive 9 miles
to
Park Hall Road, MD 489, and turn right. When MD 489 meets MD 5,
turn left and travel approximately
0.2 miles to North Snow Hill Manor Road. Turn
right. Travel 1.1 miles to house # 1.
From Washington: US
4 East to Upper Marlboro. Then as described above.
From Richmond: I-95
to US2 07 to US 301, 6.0 mi. north of Potomac River Bridge, turn right
at MD 234. Continue south when MD 234 intersects with MD 5 in Leonardtown.
Stay on MD 5, travelling approximately 15.5 miles to North Snow Hill
Manor Road. Turn right and proceed 1.1 mile to the first tour stop.
Follow Pilgrimage Arrows and
Signs.
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1.
Cornerstone
19583 North Snow Hill Manor Road
This lot was originally a portion
of a 6,000 acre bequethment to Justinian Snow, Gentleman, granted
by Lord Baron of Baltimore and patented 27 February 1639/40. A plaque
that sits onsite was dedicated to this event in 1995 by The Descendants
of the Maryland Manor Lords. The original structure on this lot was
a 1950s style brick rambler owned by the Rowe family. Now the residence
of a granddaughter and family, the modest house was renovated into
an eclectic New England style cottage. This new two story, four bedroom
house offers spectacular views of the St. Mary's River and has custom
cupolas adorning the roof that illuminate at night. There is a gazebo
with a large driftwood chandelier and fish cutouts in the risers
of the outdoor stairs. The interior of the house has many clever
touches that turn a new house into a cozy home including vintage
lighting, refinished and mismatched newel posts, 100+ year old butcher
block used daily in the kitchen, custom tile work and a claw footed
tub in the master bathroom. Some of the original plantings remain
including a row of camellias that explode with blooms each year.
Turn right and travel 0.2 mi. to Site
#2. |
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2.
19491 North Snow Hill Manor Road
Garden Only
In a park-like setting on
the St. Mary’s River, visitors will find beauty and repose among
mature trees and gorgeous flowers. The landscaping began
over fifty years ago with street side plantings of grandiflora
magnolias, Otto Luykens laurels, dogwoods, crape myrtles, nandinas
and hollies that shelter the garden from the rural road. Once
inside the property, dozens of azaleas, old and new, form an understory
of greenery surrounding the front yard. Shade plantings create
yet a third tier of interest. Formal foundation plantings
of award-winning hollies and camellias surround the house itself. As
you move towards the water, dozens of iris, peonies, and viburnums
are featured. A heritage rose (perhaps “New Dawn”?) from
the old family farm in Georgia now cascades over an arbor as you
enter the cutting garden. Another climbing rose, “Sombreuil,”
graces the courtyard. Herb, flower, and vegetable gardens
delight the owners and their guests throughout the spring and summer. Friendship
garden ornamentals recall the pleasure of sharing favorite plants. The
gardens were designed and are maintained according to “Bay-Wise”
practices by amateur landscaper and master gardener, Linda Williams.
Turn right and follow Snow Hill Manor
Road 1.3 mi. to its intersection with MD 5. Turn right. Enter the
first driveway on the right to Site #3. |
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3.
Tolerance
17301 Point Lookout Road
Tolerance sits
on fourteen acres that were part of the original Snow Hill Manor
tract deeded to Abell Snow in 1639. On the property at
the corner of South Snow Hill Manor Road and Route MD 5 (Point
Lookout Road), is a monument to the Jesuit priest, Father Andrew
White, who sailed to St. Mary’s in 1634. He founded the
first Catholic Church in English North America. The church
is currently being rebuilt in Historic St. Mary’s City about
one-half mile to the south. The house at Tolerance was
built in the 1930s and later named by Admiral and Mrs. Thurston
Clarke, whose heirs sold the property to the current owners in
1994. The long, large chicken coop on the property was
the source of “Pine Shadows” eggs that were sold to the navy
base where Admiral Clarke served as Commandant. The name Tolerance was
selected by the Clarkes to commemorate the Act of Religious Toleration,
adopted in 1649 in the State House at St. Mary’s City. The
house is built in a classic tidewater Maryland style called a
“telescope”. There is a tall central section flanked on
either side by shorter wings. The current owners remodeled
the house in 1995, removing the asbestos shingles and replacing
them with cedar. A master bath and cupola were added as
well as interior and mechanical modernization. The interior
of the house contains many of the owners’ collections including
Maryland memorabilia, political buttons, army insignia, arrowheads
and the art work of local St. Mary’s artists. The shoreline
was protected from further erosion with the construction of a
wall of stone (“riprap”) and plantings of sea grass. This
has created a natural habitat for crabs, fish, and other Bay
life. The landscape is enhanced with ancient cedars, crape
myrtles and loblolly pines. The surrounding woods and wetlands
provide a refuge for deer, red fox, and even coyote. Birds
are everywhere, including a resident osprey couple and a visiting
bald eagle as well as blue birds, geese, loons, and hummingbirds.
From the driveway,
turn right and follow Point Lookout Road, MD 5 for 0.2 mi.
to Site #4. |
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4.
Saint Marie's
17157 Point Lookout Road
Saint Marie’s, which
overlooks the St. Mary’s River, is located within a large tract
of land patented by Nathaniel Pope in the 1630s and called Pope’s
Freehold. After the difficulties of Ingle’s Rebellion,
Pope relocated to Westmoreland County in Virginia’s Northern Neck
in the area of Pope’s Creek. His daughter married John Washington. Nathaniel
Pope was the first American ancestor of George Washington. In
Maryland, he participated in the Assembly and served as a colonel
in the militia. In 1919, Mr. Wherritt, president of Pittsburgh
Plate Glass Company, commissioned a local contractor, Benjamin
Unkle, to build this large Georgian house. The present owners acquired
the property in 1959. Many structural changes were necessary. However,
the only additions made were the sun porch, brick patio and brick
entrances. The main entrance is under the portico consisting
of three tall columns. Visitors entering the spacious living
room enjoy a magnificent vista of the river. The front of
the house features large windows and leads out to a sun room. Many
family antiques as well as paintings by local artists are displayed
throughout the home. A 17th century bonnet secretary
as well as an 18th century table are favorites of the
owners. A fine collection of Lladro figurines can be seen. The
spacious dining room features two built-in corner cabinets and
a large table, which accommodates the children and grandchildren
who have enjoyed this beautiful site on the St. Mary’s River. The
house is surrounded by magnolia trees, azaleas, boxwood, beautiful
shrubs, and flowering trees.
Turn right onto
MD 5 toward the St. Mary's College of MD. Upon entering the
campus, make the first left onto College Drive. Follow signs
to Site 5. |
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Photo Courtesy of the Historic St. Mary's City Commission (HSMC) |
5.
The St. John's Site Museum
St. John’s is one
of the most important historic sites in Maryland, if not the nation. The
home that was built here in 1638 for Maryland’s first provincial
secretary was one of the largest enclosed spaces in the colony. It
was where colonial legislators met to hammer out policies supporting
the Proprietor’s mandate to separate church and state, a full 150
years before the U.S. Constitution guaranteed religious freedom. Of
the English colonies, this was the place where a woman first asked
for the right to vote and where the first individual of African
descent participated in a general assembly. St. John’s Site
Museum exhibits dramatize the events that shaped Maryland
and the nation’s first freedoms. Audio and video installations
introduce individuals and colonial ways of life. The preserved
foundation of the home that stood here throughout the 17th century
and original artwork illustrate the evolution of the house, the
surrounding plantation, and Tidewater earthfast architecture. Some
of the remarkable artifacts that have been found at the site are
on exhibit. Visitors can examine the contents of a trashpit
and gain a unique perspective on life in another time. State-of-the-art
exhibits guide guests towards understanding the ways scholars use
archaeology, historical documents, and oral traditions to decipher
the past.
Return to Rt. MD 5 and turn left.
Drive 0.2 mi. and veer to the right to enter Trinity Church Road.
Follow the road 0.2 mi. and enter Parking Lot A on the right.
Hostesses will be available to provide information regarding the
restrooms, luncheon and visitation of Sites #6-9.
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6.
The Herb Garden at St. Mary's College
The St. Mary’s County Garden
Club, in cooperation with St. Mary’s College, planted this garden
in 1983 in honor of the 350th anniversary of the founding
of the Maryland colony. For its effort, the club was awarded
the 1983 Governor’s Cup for Civic Beautification and a Special
Achievement Certificate for Outstanding Garden Club Work. Measuring
only 20 by 30 feet, and tucked away behind Anne Arundel Hall, the
Herb Garden is a refreshing and inviting spot for students, faculty
members, and visitors to enjoy. Bright blooms of fragrant herbs
such as lavender, bee balm, yarrow, and sage blend with plants
of grey, green, silver and white. These combine with flowers
of pink, red, yellow, lavender and blue to grace the formal beds
that surround the sundial atop a mound of thyme. Garden Club
members meet monthly from April through October to maintain this
special garden for the delight of all who pass through.
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Photo © St. Mary's College of Maryland
www.smcm.edu |
7.
Garden of Remembrance
Shaded by a huge, old willow
oak, the Garden of Remembrance provides a tranquil retreat
from the pressures of daily life. Conceived as a tribute
to Maryland’s forefathers who arrived in 1634, Adele France, former
principal of St. Mary’s Female Seminary, led the effort to construct
the Garden in time for the State’s 300th anniversary
of the settlement of Maryland. Although the country was in
the grips of the Great Depression, the Alumnae Association raised
the funds to construct the garden in two short years and it was
dedicated on Sunday, June 10, 1934, just days before the enormous
Tercentenary Celebration began at St. Mary’s City. Designed
by Mark Shoemaker, a Landscape Specialist with the Maryland Extension
Service, the small, quarter-acre garden follows a plan inspired
by the Colonial revival movement. Boxwoods, azaleas and crape
myrtles line the grassy walkways, with the centerpiece of the garden
being a small pool with a raised fountain. Beautiful cherry,
holly and dogwood trees and a mixture of perennial bulbs and annual
bedding plants add their grace to the attractive grounds. Restful
benches beckon you to sit quietly, listen to the trickling water,
and enjoy the breeze. At the outer edge of the garden, a
walk underneath the covered pergola provides a view of the beautiful
St. Mary’s River.
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8.
May Russell Lodge
Located on the original portion
of The St. Mary’s Female Seminary campus, now St. Mary’s College
of Maryland, the May Russell Lodge sits on a bank overlooking
the St. Mary’s River, immediately next to the Garden of Remembrance. In
1924, after fire destroyed the campus’s main building, bricks
from that building were used to transform an old stable into
this red brick cottage. It served many functions over the
decades and has been known, at times, as the Old Stable, the Home
Economics Cottage, and the Alumnae Lodge. It
was also the home of Anna May Russell, St. Mary’s president from
1948 to 1969. In 2006, to honor her many years of service
to the school, the building was renamed the May Russell Lodge. Today,
the Lodge serves as a charming facility for visiting guests and
scholars and is used for meetings and special presentations. This
small dwelling, with its slate roof and inviting screen porch,
is situated just uphill from the new waterfront facilities.
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Photo Courtesy of the Historic St. Mary's City Commission (HSMC) |
9.
Restored Brick Chapel of 1667
The nearly 150 English settlers
who arrived at what is now St. Mary’s City aboard the Ark
and the Dove established far more than the fourth permanent
English colony in North America. They forged what would
become known as the birthplace of religious freedom in English
America. The monumental Roman Catholic Church would not
have been allowed to be built anywhere else in the English-speaking
world. It was the focal point of the Catholic faith in
Maryland until 1704 when the Calvert family lost control of the
colony. Obeying an order from the royal governor, the Jesuits
dismantled the building and used its bricks to construct a new
manor house at the St. Inigoes Mission. The Chapel fields
became agricultural fields and, while most above-ground traces
of the building were obliterated, they were never forgotten. In
1938, architectural historian H. Chandlee Forman tested the site
and found the chapel’s floor plan to be in the shape of a Latin
cross. After his work, the remains of the building were
reburied and no further archeological work took place until the
state of Maryland purchased the land for the Historic St.
Mary’s City Museum in 1981. Interest in the site was
once again revived, and local citizens raised funds to partially
demarcate the site and erect signs for visitors for the 350th anniversary
of Maryland’s founding in 1984. Major research again began
four years later, and intensive investigation and excavation
retrieved the information essential to accurately recreate the
chapel. In 1997 the Historic St. Mary’s City Foundation
began raising funds to rebuild, and the re-creation on the original
foundation started in the autumn of 2002. It is slated
for opening to the public in the summer of 2009, the 375th anniversary
of Maryland’s founding. Although in active use for only
about thirty years, the brick chapel’s legacy of religious freedom
remains a vitally important reminder of faith, perseverance,
and enduring American values.
Exit the
parking lot, and return to Point Lookout Road, Rt. MD 5. Turn
right, and drive 0.3 mi. to Rosecroft Road, and turn right.
Drive 0.4 mi. Make a hard left onto Old Cove Road. Follow the
gravel road 0.1 mi. to Site #10.
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10.
Clocker's Fancy
47715 Old Cove Road
Clocker’s Fancy was once
described by Henry Chandlee Forman as the oldest house in Maryland. While
subsequent reports dispute Forman’s initial findings, the house
stands as an example of the success of a little known middling
plantation owner by the name of Daniel Clocker. Beginning
in 1636, Clocker was an indentured servant to Captain Thomas
Cornwaleys. After his indenture ended in 1640, Clocker
may have worked as a tenant farmer. Around 1645 or 1646,
Daniel married the widow of James Courtney, Mary Lawne Courtney. Mary
had formerly been an indentured servant to Margaret Brent. Daniel
Clocker prospered and became one of several justices of the peace
for St. Mary’s County. He accumulated some 200 acres of land
before his death in 1675. The land remained in the family
line until the third quarter of the 19th century.
According to architectural historians Ranzetta, O’Rourke, and
Kiorpes, the house today called Clocker’s Fancy was
not built by the original Daniel Clocker, but several generations
later by Benjamin Clocker, sometime between 1790 and 1810. Archaeologists
Kate and Dan Ingersoll think it may have been built as early
as 1745 by Daniel Clocker III, given the evidence that was compiled
during the restoration of the house. The segment of the
house between the two brick chimneys is the “Clocker” segment. The
two hyphens were added by the Thomas family, owners between about
1915 and 1935, while a new addition on the east end was built
around 1947. During the 1930s the Thomas family (related
to the owners of Deep Falls) added many Colonial Revival
features to the central portion of the house, including the pump
porch on the west end. The State of Maryland purchased
the house at auction in 1993 from the Heagy estate and the house
was closed up until 2003, when the current resident curators
negotiated with Historic St. Mary’s City to begin a large-scale
restoration project to bring the house and grounds back to life
according to the historic preservation standards of the Department
of the Interior.
Return to Rosecroft Road, and
turn left. Drive 1.3 mi. to Site #11. |
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11.
17881 Rosecroft Road
Situated next to the house at the
end of the peninsula named Rose Croft (also family property
with an original foundation dating to 1642), this beautiful house
is located in the former orchard of the “croft,” meaning “farm”
in Old English. Where the house now stands were once rows
of apple, peach, and persimmon trees. Built in 2000, and
designed by Richard Dayton of Wilmington, DE, the structure echoes
the roof line of the original croft house next door. The
house was constructed of Hardy Plank, and reflects a contemporary
style. Each room offers a grand view of the St. Mary’s River. The
large dining room is perfect for entertaining, and the intimate
living room next to it lends itself to cozy conversations after
dinner. All of the artworks are originals done by local artists. Red
cedars, all fifty to one hundred years old, line the entrance to
the house. English boxwoods propagated from the 375 year
old boxwoods on the adjoining original property next door now enhance
the surrounding garden. A hedge of crape myrtles provides privacy
around the inviting pool. The house faces west for magnificent
sunset views and south for cool summer breezes.
Turn left to return to Route MD
5.
An optional stop to conclude the
tour is the St. Ignatius Catholic Church. Established in
1641, this church has one of the oldest cemeteries in America as
well as exceptional stained glass windows and altar. Drive
south upon your return to MD 5. The church is located immediately
before the front gate of the St. Inigoes Detachment of the Patuxent
River Naval Air Warfare Center (NAWC-AD). |
Queen
Anne's County | St. Mary's County | Harford
County | Baltimore City:
Homeland
Anne Arundel County: Bay Ridge | Baltimore
County: Western Run and Worthington Valleys
Maryland House and
Garden Pilgrimage Headquarters | 1105-A Providence Road | Towson, MD
21286 | 410.821.6933
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